The Whisky Distilleries of the United Kingdom
The following is from The Whisky Distilleries of the United
Kingdom by Alfred Barnard:
Glendarroch
WE left Greenock on the morning of the 26th of July by the "Columba", one of
Mr. David MacBrayne's swift passenger steamers, bound for the Distillery that
heads this chapter. The boats on this route are fitted up with every imaginable
convenience and contrivance for the comfort of passengers. On board there is a
post office, with telegraph and money order departments; a daintily stocked
fruit shop, bookstall, and a magnificent dining saloon. In addition to the
"Columba" there is the "Iona" and "Grenadier," and one or other of these The
scenery on the journey is most picturesque and varied, and it would be difficult
to find a more romantic district than that round about and on either side of the
Kyles of Bute. The grand background of hills with shady vales nestling on their
slopes, the beautiful deep waters of the lochs with their pretty sea-side
retreats, combine to make this one of the most popular of Mr. MacBrayne's
"summer tours."
We reached Ardrishaig at one p.m., and after securing quarters at the hotel,
made our way to Giell-darroch, distant about half a mile. The Distillery is
planted on the banks of the far-famed Crinan Canal, and is quite an object of
curiosity to the thousands of tourists who on board the celebrated little canal
steamer "Linnet," pass by on their way to Oban. It is built at the foot of the
Robber's Glen which runs upwards from the banks of the canal into the heart of
the hills in the background; this glen was once the haunt of smugglers, and no
more romantic spot could have been chosen for a Distillery. The Darroch, a burn
which might al most be called a river, issues from the higher hills and flows
through the glen, falling in its onward course over numerous rocks; reaching the
grounds of Glendarroch it farms a lovely cascade falling seventy feet, and
clashes over other rocks into a trout pool below; then, passing through a tunnel
beneath the canal, it finds its war to the sea.
From the back walls of the Distillery the ground rises in the farm of a steep
thickly-wooded hill, wh6re ferns and blue bells grow in rich luxuriance. We
scrambled up the zig-zag path for about a quarter of a mile, frequently, to keep
the path, having to stoop low under bending trees that had overgrown the track.
Crossing the burn by a rustic bridge we climbed higher up the glen, where, amid
trees of every shade of green and sylvan beauty, and the air filled with the
rich perfume of hawthorn and lilacs rising from the luxuriant gardens below, one
is lost in a scene of indescribable charm and beauty. Above are the higher hills
covered with heather; below a vast stretch of the waters of the loch is the sea
beyond. On the opposite side stands Kilmor Castle with a background of mountains
shading from green to purple, same parts thickly wooded, and the whole tinged
with a roseate suffusion of the setting gun. This lovely wooded glen is a
favourite resort of tourists and artists, but in olden days as before stated
smugglers located themselves here where, defying the law, they made a celebrated
Whisky which was in great demand. Tradition says that there is a smuggler
imprisoned in the heart of the hill who is kept in durance vile by the avenging
Spirit of a revenue officer whose life he took. He is allowed to come forth once
a year at midnight, on the anniversary of the day upon which the crime was
committed, and should he then happen to meet the spirit of the comrade who
betrayed him to the officers of the law, the spell would be broken and he
released.
Proceeding on our war, every turn in the pathway brings out fresh views of
the valley, and causes us to linger here far longer than the brief time
appointed for our sojourn by our friends waiting below. It is a spot of
enchantment, and no wonder that such a scene should excite us to enthusiasm when
I recalling those days spent at Ardrishaig. Descending the hill by another
pathway we cross by steppingstones over the Ard Burn which adds to the water
supply of the Distillery. It runs from a loch three miles in distant, higher up
the hill, and wt noticed that it was dammed up in several places where it is
filtered over fine stones and gravel, eventually falling into a circular
concreted reservoir on a level with the top of the works. The Glendarroch
Distillery covers three acres of ground, and is solidly built of stone in the
farm of quadrangle, with a frontage of 500 feet to the canal. We entered the
enclosure through a gateway, which has a running door sliding to the right and
left, and were courteously received by Mr. Hunter, the manager, who conducted us
over the works. He informed us that the barley is brought to the Distillery by
canal, and the vessels discharge it at the Granary doors. The water from the
Achnagbreach Hill, before referred to, is used for distilling purposes and that
from the loch and Darroch Burn for driving power.
We first visited the Granary and Maltings, which are on the left of the
quadrangle as you enter. They consist of a lofty two-storied building, measuring
131 feet by 48 feet, and at the western end there is a fine concrete Steep
capable of wetting 66 quarters of barley at one time; a small part of the upper
floor is also used for malting purposes, but the larger portion is for storing
the barley, and is capable or holding 2,000 quarters of barley; the grain is
hoisted direct from the ships in the canal to the Barley Loft. At the end of
this building there is a new Kiln, one of the finest we have seen in this part
of Scotland, it is 5 I feet square, floored with wire cloth, and heated with
peats only, dug from the neighbouring moor~. The malt is delivered by a steam
hoist to the Kiln floor, which, when loaded, dries 1,000 bushels at one time.
The dried malt is thrown through a shoot direct on to the floor of the Malt
Deposit, the top floor of the adjoining building which farms the centre of the
quadrangle, and facing the main entrance, it is 48 feet long by 40 feet broad,
and the lower story is used for No. 3 Bonded, Warehouse. Our guide next
conducted us through a doorway direct on to the top floor of the Mill Building,
which farms the Grist Loft a chamber 50 feet by 30 feet, having a large hopper
on one side. Underneath is the Mill which contains a pair of metal rollers
driven by steam; here also is the engine department. The pulverized malt is
lifted by elevators to the Grist hopper above, al ready referred to. As will be
seen, the process of Whisky making in this establishment is mostly clone by
gravitation, and works round the quadrangle, ending in the Spirit Store.
Passing into the next building we find ourselves on the central platform of
the Mash House, where there are two timber heating tanks, each holding 5,000
gallons. The first object that attracted our attention was a Steel Mashing
Machine, which is red from the hopper in the Grist Loft. Descending to the
ground floor we come to the Mash Tun, a vessel 17 feet in diameter and 6 1/2
feet deep; enclosed within it there is a treble acting stirring gear driven by
the water wheel. At our left, and under the floor, is the metal Underback, 11
1/2 feet in diameter and 5 1/2 deep, with a semi-circular opening guarded by a
railing, and underneath this vessel is the box of the Wort Pump, the only one in
the premises, all else, besides pumping the worts, being clone by gravitation.
The Draff from the Mash-tun falls through a sluice into a hopper below, and is
removed by water power straight into the Draff House in the outer yard. The Mash
House is a capital building 60 feet high, 39 feet broad, and 27 feet long.
All the old-fashioned coolers have long since been clone away with, and the
rare now pumped up to a Miller's Refrigerator, fixed in the roof of the
neighbouring building, and copper pipes run the worts direct from thence into
the Fermenting Tuns. Ascending a staircase, we found ourselves in the Tun Room,
same 10 feet above the level of the Mash-tun; it is 40 feet square, well
lighted, and contains five Washbacks, averaging 5,500 gallons each; the switches
therein are driven by a second water-wheel, to keep the liquor in motion during
the process of fermentation. The floor underneath is occupied as No. 4
Warehouse.
We then passed through the Brewing Department and entered the Still House,
considered by same to be a model of its kind. It is 65 feet long, 40 feet broad,
and 60 feet high; its walls are painted white, and it is lighted by eleven large
windows. At the eastern end, on a level with the bottom of the Washbacks, is the
Wash Charger, a timber dish holding 6,000 gallons, to which the wash runs by
gravitation. On the floor of the house are three "small Pot Stills," a Wash
Still holding 4,726 gallons, and two Low-wines Stills; one of them holds 1,000
gallons, and the other 500. The Worm Tub is at the back of the house, and in
close proximity to the Darroch. It is a fine timber vessel raised on piers, and
fed by a continuous stream of cold water from the reservoir it farms a
conspicuous object from the canal, as will be seen in the illustration, and
occasions many a question from tourists who are uninitiated in the mysteries of
distillation, as to its use and purpose.
We now ascended a flight of steps to a large gallery overlooking the canal
and the beautiful Loch Fyne. Here there are placed two Feints Receivers, the No.
1 holding 1,571, and the No. 2, 1,549 gallons; also two Spirit Receivers, No. 1
holding 1,544, and No. 2, 500 gallons.
Besides the Safe and Sampling Safe, we noticed a portable fire engine and
other appliances for the speedy extinguishment and prevention of fire. We were
informed that Glendarroch is considered by the Excise authorities to be one of
the most complete Distilleries in the district.
Following the course of the Whisky, we proceeded to- the Spirit Store, a
neat, light little building, which contains a Spirit Vat holding 3,248 gallons,
and an Ullage Vat 231 gallons, the weighing apparatus, and an office for the
Excise clerks. There are four large Warehouses, capable of containing 2,000
casks, and others at Waterloo Street, Glasgow, where also are to be found the
Public Offices of the Distillery. Continuing our inspection of Glendarroch, we
next visited the Engine Department; it contains a very handsome 25-horse power
engine, and a steam boiler 31 feet long by 7t feet in diameter; and afterwards
the Manager's and Excise offices; the farmer is over the Spirit Store, and the
latter over No. 1 Warehouse. Glengilp House, the residence of a farmer
proprietor of the Distillery, is now occupied by the manager, and the large
old-fashioned garden, crowded with fruit trees and flowers, which stretches d to
the canal banks has been divided between that gentleman and the two Excise
officers, Mr. Gillies having provided these latter with picturesque houses
opening into same. In the park there are also eight houses for the workmen, each
with a small plot of ground. The delightful meadows which skirt Glengilp House
are in the occupation of Mr. Gillies, and produce unusually heavy crops of hay
of fine quality. At the back of the establishment, and convenient to the Kiln,
is a large Peat Shed, containing upwards of 500 tong of peat ready for use. N
ear the Worm Tub, and facing the burn there is a large Cooperage, stables, and
cart sheds.
The house of Glendarroch, which has lately been acquired by Mr. Gillies, and
used by him as a summer residence, is on the other side of the waterfall. It
stands in lovely grounds, and is almost bidden by trees; climbing over its walls
and roof are roses of every variety, and hanging over the path which leads to it
fuschia trees, 8 feet high, under which you walk, testify to the mildness of the
climate in this district. At the back of the estate rises a small park, from
which delightful views can be obtained of the extensive and celebrated demesne
of Auchindarroch, which immediately adjoins. It is a place of sequestered beauty
unequalled in the district, and it skirts the canal for a considerable distance,
forming a fringe of brushwood and trees festooned with honeysuckle and other
trailing plants, familiar to all who have passed along this lovely route on
their war to Oban and the north. The Whisky made in the Glendarroch Distillery
is pure Highland Malt, and the annual output is 80,000 gallons.
The sinking gun warned us that it was time to take our departure, so we
stepped into the Distillery boat and were quickly taken across the canal to our
quarters on the opposite share, where we donned our "war paint," and proceeded
to the house of Glendarroch to enjoy the hospitality of its owner.
Oban
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